Super chunks

So I am aware that I have been out of the loop for a little while now, but I am finding time is returning to me and I am beginning to feel less 100% mum all the time and more like just 93% mum and 7% emily again, which is really why I am back on my emiliabird blog, and embracing all my old loves, like liberty fabrics and expensive wool - haha! (I know, I know, I am sure I have said this before - but this time I actually think I really mean it!)

I was recently pinning my evening away on pinterest and came across one image that stole my heart away - the most beauty fluffy extra super chunky jumper in the most perfect shade of blue. YES!

I have really no idea at all where it comes from but I really really needed to share it and really really need to recreate it!

I am currently in the middle of a chunky cropped jumper knitting project (can you see a theme developing?) which is a reknit of this grand wool from colinette  yarns from about 589439 years ago (when it looks like I might have had a knitting project per month?! No??)  I have condensed my wool stash into a rather lovely mid century style sewing box (the big type on legs) but things are a little bit crammed in there so I do need to knit some of it away into my wardrobe before purchasing any more...  then I found this and think maybe I should just take my old stored up wool to charity and buy some more new super chunky light blue wool? hmmmm

Have I mentioned that I am a minimalist now? I feel some conflict.

skirts skirts skirts

For my next evening class, i really need to have my mind set on my project and to have a pattern ready to use (i think next week will be for cutting out) so knew that i would need to spend some time this weekend to get myself prepared and am pleased to say i've had a most productive day!

I have decided now that i want to attempt two projects to be finished by Christmas. I think this should be okay as the focus is on the construction and not on all the drawing of patterns which did take up a lot of our class time with the pattern cutting course (of course!) and i will hopefully be able to go on wednesday with my patterns ready to go (at least something!)

Here is a small presentation of my design ideas. I've managed to draw the paper patterns already AND cut out the toiles, so i just hope they will sew together okay so I can full steam ahead on wednesday.

Item 1: Black Pencil Skirt (made in the black crepe fabric)

reeba skirt

I have decided to go for this one! I made the pattern really easily from my blocks - just adding an extra dart to the front piece, and putting in the seam and vent at the back. I haven't drawn the waistband piece yet, but would like to be able to create that corded effect.

Item 2: Trimmed Panel Skirt (To be made in grey white and lilac houndstooth check)

a little bit of chanel

I saw this chanel skirt as worn by keira (here you can see all the pictures) and think my patterned fabric will look nice in this design. I love the trim detail too and would like some lilac velvet ribbon to pick out the colour in the fabric (i hope i will find some). I was really in a dilemma about the back, but after walking home behind a girl in a panel skirt on friday, I have decided to split it into three to mirror the front, and then split the middle panel again so I can still have a centred zip and split. 

I will let you know how the toiles go! fingers crossed!

Yours skirtingly,

Emilia. xxx

Dressmaking once more

Tonight I had my first dressmaking for beginners and improvers class. It looks like a lovely group although i didn't really get to speak to many people yet. There is a very sweet one though called Iris. I want to be her friend a lot. She just seemed to be doing what she liked and setting her own agenda for discussions so i think she is a good influence. And she had a lovely apron for sewing - something I think I would like myself.

this is the sort of thing Iris wore - probably from her younger days

The class i think is about half and half with beginners and improvers so it will be nice to see what everyone gets up to. There are three of us from last year's pattern cutting and our teacher is the same as before so she said we can do what we would like. We have been set the task of buying a skirt pattern and the fabric for homework (Julia says she will be stricter on homework - I think this will be good for me) so this means really I need to find a good pattern or draw one sharpish and get my fabric and everything else too. The beginners are all so keen I fear I won't keep up!

I had in my mind that I wanted to do a dress, but as everyone will be doing a skirt (except Iris - she's doing a dress) I think I will put my dress idea on hold and use this first term to sort out a really simple and well fitting skirt pattern and practise making it up to perfection (or the best I can). I think this will be a big challenge for me as I do have a tendency to cut corners and rush the stages.

I think one problem with the projects i took on last year was that they were a bit too fussy (especially the Fendi style dress), and not really the sort of things i like to wear which are really quite simple. This is probably not good for the class where I'm meant to be pushing the boat out, but i think there is enough challenge in achieving a beautiful finish.

I will need to get a move on, but am pleased to find my toile from the blocks i made last year fits much better than i remember and it should be a very easy alteration to create a pencil skirt pattern. I started to do a little research and found this picture which i think is nice:

It is called a reeba pencil skirt and I found it here on the channel 4 style page - good for an hourglass shape apparently (i am hoping good to create one - not that you need one to start with)

This would really fit the bill as is so simple, but with a little bit of design in the darts and waistband. I will do a little more research though to see what i can see. It's not really so different to the skirt i made last year so perhaps that pattern will be the one to use again (although i have not worn that one so much - i think it has needed an iron for a while!)

As for the fabric - well, i knew what i wanted there, and now have bought it! Some black wool crepe from linton direct. I know it doesn't sound very exciting at all, but I have been needing to make a black skirt for a long time and I hope that this will really be lovely stuff to ensure it is the nicest black skirt it can be. I also rather impulsively got a little bit of grey white and blue houndstooth which was on sale (it is nice to buy a couple of pieces to help justify the postage costs) I had seen this before and i love this style for a skirt. Also this is silk and viscose blend so i am really looking forward to seeing what it's like. I'll give you a peek when it arrives too!

wow - a lot of activity for one day. I feel like this is the kick start my inner dressmaker really needed.

yours back in the swing,

Emilia. x

The bees tweed knees

I haven't really done very much dressmaking recently. I think I did such a good job last summer that i have not really needed to make very many new things for this season. However, i did purchase some very nice tweed with my birthday money and it has been waiting for me to make up my mind on what to do. It is harder for me when I have made some investment and really want to make the best of it. And also I really like it when I have materials all ready for when inspiration strikes - it's best that way round.

I was really inspired by this photoshoot in the June edition of vogue and decided that i really wanted a below the knee a line skirt. I have been wearing a lot of dresses these days, so felt that this was a perfect idea to refresh the wardrobe a little. Also, a little while ago i was really mesmerised by a similar style skirt in the Chanel window at selfridges, so with my special fabric i knew it was my chance to recreate that effect.

I used my pattern for the A-line pocketed skirt, but cut it out so I could sew it without the pockets and instead have a zip fastening in the side seam. I am really so pleased with the result. I was a little worried about the weight of the fabric when it arrived - that perhaps it was going to be a bit bulky, but actually have been very pleased that although weighty, is not at all bulky, and has a brilliant drape to it.

I decided to use this piece inside out as the grey and pink threads running through are quite luminescent, but used the right side at the waistband for contrast and really think it looks lovely.

I left the hem to fray in a Chanel style (there is a line of stitching so it doesn't go too far though!) but perhaps i will tidy this up soon.

wonderful addition i say. I have another piece to use also, but perhaps a dress with that. Now there is a bank holiday weekend so watch this space!

Yours smart in tweed,
Emilia. xxx

Linton Tweeds

Today was exciting for me as my order from Linton Tweeds, arrived (the house of Chanel buy this!)

These are the fabrics i got to make some new clothes. I just bought a metre of each but they are really wide so plenty there for something nice. It's so delighting.

 This navy grey and pink is luminous! I am very pleased i opted for this!

 This is a black textured woollen. It didn't photograph so well but it is really lovely in real life.

Along with my order, I was sent a set of samples. They are lovely, and good to have to help me with future purchases. It is really very hard to buy fabric online!

There is range of the couture fabrics, and also a selection of the crepes. That is good to know the colours of those - they are next on my list!

Here are some close ups of my favourites. They are really gorgeous in real life. I don't know i will ever go to Fabric land again. op.

I think a few fabric corsages are on the horizon! Luckily tomorrow is my last day of working for a few weeks so I will have lots of time for my projects. I am looking forward to that quite a lot!



Yours tweedily dee,
Tweedily dum. xxxx

Great minds....

Today I was browsing the elle autumn/winter runway edit supplement, and came across the page devoted to the designer Meadham Kirchhoff, complete with this outfit...

It did ring a few bells...

If only I was a quicker knitter! (although finishing sooner probably wouldn't have got my cardigan onto a model at london fashion week and stolen the thunder)

Unfortunately my version is still a work in progress, but getting there now. Just a sleeve to go (and button bands and collar)

I would quite like to wear it on my birthday next sunday... let's see about that! At least I know which colour lipstick to wear it with now.

Yours, just call me Kirchhoff,
Emilia, xxxx



Greensleeves (and blue sleeves. and wedding sleeves)

There was a bit of a theme this weekend!

Despite being rather weary after a whole day of walking by the sea, i decided that I would put the evening to good use doing some drawing and working out. I am making two things at the moment from my own patterns, my blue designer rip off dress, and my green cable detailed (also rip off) cardigan - but was yet to work out the sleeves for either. I think i have a mental aversion to them as they always seem like the most difficult and labourious parts.

But I am pleased to have pushed on and look what i've done:

The sleeves for my dress are quite boxy and panelled so there are a few pieces for them.

I am pleased i have sorted that out as it was playing on my mind a little. And hopefully now i will be able to go ahead with some sewing tomorrow (bank holiday joy!) I only hope it works out as have only enough fabric left for one attempt (and failed to find any more in the shop!)

As i was in the swing and had sleeves on the brain, i also managed the knitting workings out...

I am really happy with the progress i have made with this knitting. I (finally) managed to work out a cable design I was pleased with and have now finished the back. Despite my thorough plan making, there was still quite a strong element of trial and error. But completing the back means that most things are worked out and the rest of the pieces should fall into place nicely.

I am wondering if perhaps i have sleeves on the brain because of this most beautiful dress:

the most beautiful dress

I was so joyful that day, and thought everything was so perfect. I was pleased it had a vintage feel as that is my favourite type of style. Kate was a vision - what a lovely wife she will be.

I am pleased to have this dressmaking pattern now... McCalls 1962 wedding dress suddenly seems much more current than before:

disintegrating a little!

Just to clear up the facts quickly incase you get the wrong end of the stick about it - I didn't buy this for the wedding dress, just for when i was a bridesmaid. I made one in navy blue for work too. it's rather a grand one.

I also just want to include this picture of the cake as well! Amazing! 

Yours going to try to stop thinking about the royal wedding now and do some knitting instead,

Lady Greensleeves (of cambridge),  xxx

ps. i also bought some hair tongs. i am kate middleton mad now.

Spring green

And now it is finally time for a brand new knit! I am really pleased about it as I have had a project in mind for a while now: A mint green reverse stocking stitch cable shouldered DK cardigan.

I used to have a mint green cardigan, but unfortunatley it got shrunk in a careless washing machine incident. But for a while now i have been thinking i must replace it, but it's not been as easy as it might seem. i might sound like it's a bit of a limited colour, but actually looks good with all the other colours (probably there is an exception but i'm not sure at the moment) so i will be happy to have one in my wardrobe once more.

inspiration came from Topshop

i saw this lovely apricot cardigan which i thought would be a gem to replicate. Originally i thought it would be nice to have an apricot coloured cardigan, but i am never sure of the nude tones - i don't really think they suit me so am sticking to my guns with green.

some workings out - nearly there.

I have been making good use of my Design your own knits book. I think that because of my pattern cutting experience, i am more receptive to the process than i have been before and have spent some proper time in the planning stages. It is satisfying to do some drawings. 

I found the wool last week in Liberty. It was a real treat to see all the wool and choose the colour. I think if i had been buying online i would have ended up with more of a baby shade so am really pleased with this. Rowan pure wool dk in shade 006 - Pier (perhaps it is more of a sea green?)

Although I am copying a design i saw, i am trying to make some changes to make this my own. Rosie told us that to pass something as a new design, it needs to be different from the original in seven ways (she was telling us how Primark get away with their copying) I will try.

Yours in mint condition,

Emilia Knit. xx

Paperbag

Yesterday I had a lovely first proper holiday day, and also a productive one. After finally sending off my mixtape, and reaching the finishing stages of my raspberry red cardigan (about time!), I had an inspiring trip to town...

... whilst browsing the rails in topshop, i happened upon this beaut...

topshop online describe it as a 'printed paperbag waist skirt'

Unfortunately for me, it was a little too much for my purse to part with, but a lovely design. And so for a fraction of the price, i found some fabric and armed with my skirt blocks and some dot and cross paper, set about a little afternoon pattern cutting!

the fabric was not so similar after all, but a sweet one all the same 

It turned into a much harder task than i had originally thought and ended up with a little bit of a headache. I can feel my brain working out when I am thinking about pleats.

my paper patterns

I made a couple of changes to the original, just to make it a bit easier for me to construct (put in an extra little pleat instead of the pockets, and put a concealed zip in the back seam rather than a fly opening in the front) but am pleased to have recreated the features i was attracted to - the paperbag waist, box pleats and deep coloured floral print.

Et voila...

 Good with a belt

box pleats in close up

I felt rather triumphant after all my headaching. It is nice when these things work out. 

Yours bagged and belted,

Emilia. xxx

Fendi-ing for myself

Since i started my pattern cutting class, i am extra inspired when I read my magazines, knowing that i can put my learning into practice to recreate some of the things i see.

This term we have been drawing our bodice and sleeve blocks and learning about how to adapt them to different styles. It feels like progress has been slow this term, but i think it is just that those are quite complicated things to draft, and also take a bit more concetration to make up the toiles (i spent one evening just fitting in a sleeve!)

For my class project, i have decided to recreate a shirt dress i saw in the catwalk collections - this Karl Lagerfield dress for Fendi. I think it will be good practice for a lot of different block manipulation features. And i like to think i can have something that has been designed by Karl Lagerfield (although perhaps not with the same production skills as the house of Fendi. time to put to use this book i think)

I am now at the stage where I have created a mini version of the design using these miniature blocks. It's a good way to work out the techniques and mathematics needed without getting involved with massive pieces of paper.

Here are the mini pattern pieces i made from the mini blocks. I have managed to do away with the darts and create panels with curved seams, and added a collar to the front (needs some work!) With the sleeve block i put in some darts at the shoulder to make them boxier.

And here is the minature toile to see how it worked...

I am pleased to be at this stage. The mini dress is only put together very roughly, but it was useful to see how the pieces fit, especially with curved seams. I think it was good to have a little practice or i might have been a little daunted. I have some things to consider for the final pattern drafting too so this has been a very useful stage indeed.

good job!

Yours coming along,

Emilia xx

Pilgrim's progress

Last night i had evening class number 4. it is beginning to get exciting as the process goes on. Last night i fitted my toile (that is the basic calico skirt) to make sure it is the right size and from that i was able to make some minor adjustments to the pattern to make my own personal skirt blocks. These are card versions of the paper pattern to use as the basic templates for creating my own designs.

Here i am with some miniature versions to show you what they are like (the real ones are life size)

We are using the little ones to practise how to manipulate the shapes to create the pattern pieces for different skirt types. It is fun and now i think i just want to make clothes for small things. I hope we get to make up our final design in miniature first. that will please me.

working in miniature makes me think of Viktor and Rolf. that would be fun to make a whole collection in small sizes.

I think i have a good idea of my own design now. Here is my first attempt at a sketch (i traced from a template to get the right shape!)

The one on the left is the best version as more of a pencil skirt, and the pleats have a good shading effect. I am not sure of the fabric yet as that will make all the difference. My idea comes from this pair of trousers i saw. I only have a small picture in my scrapbook, but will try to find a better one to show you where the inspiration was from - that might help with the visualisation. I like the position of the pleats, and would like to put in some pockets if we are allowed. They are useful for when i find a button or penny (it is important that you consider the practicalities of the design)

It is very satisfying to be doing all this designing and making. It will probably be a couple of weeks before i have much more to show and tell, but i am hoping for grand things to come.

Yours trust me i'm a designer,

Emilia. xx.x