Velveteen Dream

I have not done any dressmaking since moving back to Burgess Hill, but have for some time wanted to make some winter versions of my summer dresses. So yesterday i bought some cotton velvet and unpacked my sewing machine and utilised this pattern with much success.

This time i made the sleeveless version

I used a trick my pattern cutting teacher showed us last week to help the facings lay flat - she said that once you have sewn them in, trim and notch the seam allowances and then sew the seam allowance down onto the wrong side of the facing. it works a wonder! I am pleased with all those smooth curve lines.

I do feel grand when i'm wearing this one. most oppulant. I forgot about the instant gratification of dressmaking (compared with knitting - i am still labouring!) I think next will be something in tartan.

Also this weekend

• I saw some music and drank some sweet sussex stout (and a sneaky christmas ale)
• I received a mixtape (for october - long overdue and a nice surprise!)
• There were a lot of autumn leaves, and this afternoon 4:30pm, everything was touched with a golden glow.
• Mouse doesn't seem well. I am worried about her

A nice weekend this one - except for concern for mouse. I am hoping it is just her hibernation instinct kicking in and causing her to be dosy, and nothing to worry about. She is nice in this mood though because i can stroke her a lot. I am showing her pictures of Deb's gorgeous mouse faced biscuits to cheer her up, and feeding her cornflakes.

Now I can smell apple pie cooking and mum is making boiled bacon and pease pudding dinner. Very good!

Yours pork bellied,

Emilia

and Mouse.

x xx

How the knitting is coming along

i am in full swing with my October cardigan - which is just as well because it's november now. luckily we are going through a mild spell, but i think this chunky one will be of great use in the coming months. I have just realised i have not even mentioned this again since it was just in the idea stage - here are the updates:

My design has altered a bit from my first ideas as after speaking to my mum, who is the guru, i decided that I would be more adventurous with my cables than i first planned, and do an all over cable design. Here is a small sample:

This is the wool - Skye in dark jacob colourway. i am pleased with it i think - although am never sure until i'm finished. I did a few sample cables to begin with, as found any small twists were lost because of the patterns in the colours. This one is worked over 8 stitches every eight rows (i think that will only make sense if you have done some cable knitting - but i will give some better instructions when i come to write the pattern) Then either side of the cable is three stitches of reverse stocking stitch and a slip stitch line. I am pleased with this pattern. very simple, but quite nice.

My progress so far is that i have completed the back and one front panel, and almost a sleeve. i am not sure about the sleeve though, and might start it again. perhaps without cables, or with a different texture as i have seen that done before and it might be a good idea. i am not sure though, and seem to have knitted a lot of it, so perhaps i will persevere.

Also, before i get back to my knitting, and put  on the halloween special of psychoville, I would like to tell you about my cable needle - it is a hooked one. i hadn't seen one like this before (neither had the woman in the shop, or my mum) but i find it much easier to use than the straight or kinked types, as it holds the stitches safely but hangs out of the way very helpfully. i would recommend that type.


Yours knicker in a twist, let's twist again, marshmallow twist,
Emilia. xx

ps. i will leave you with some more Prada. it is good to be reminded of the inspiration.

Happy Halloween!

unfortunately i missed Deb and Rosie's pumpkin carving party (self inflicted ills) but they created some amaaaaaaaaazing laterns. My carving attempt hasn't really advanced much since last year, but this year i did put the scoopings to good use with some pumpkin and nutmeg soup. That warmed my heart.

Happy halloween!

Yours ghoulishly,
Small faced pumpkin. xx

The little ones

Mouse, Bird and Lapin.

I have been knitting little tiny ones. Here they are in the cage with mouse.

Audrey wasn't impressed by them being there. she pushed them on the floor and trod on them.

Yours 

Emilia and Audrey. xx

The times they are changin'

it is time again to post off my mixtape project for October.

this month the only thing i could think of as a good theme would be the autumn. this was a really lovely task to find those songs. i used the themes of this season as my focus. like the change of weather, nature, harvests, goldenness, hibernation, and being mellow and thoughtful. 

I tried to make sure all the songs were still pretty and uplifting as i think autumn is a grand season and no real reason to be sad. the best sounds for this time are acoustic and comforting like guitars and harmonious singing. I feel that this project has really helped me come to terms with the cold and darkness. Here is my finished collection:

I struggle a little (lot) with the artwork aspect of the project as have seen some other submissions and they seem very well thought out artistically. i am not really very good at art, but i really love my friend Yumi's illustrations of leaves so her pictures were my inspiration and it was nice to use my colour pencils. I hope that this element is not so important as the songs though. I think i will concentrate on this more next month and try my very best.


Yours harvest festivally,
emilia x

Lucky Buttons

Sometimes when i'm walking along i find a button. This means a good thing because it makes me feel like i have some good luck (like if i found a penny). Sometimes i'm lucky enough to pick up two in a day and i call it a two button day. If i ever say it, it means it's a good one. Quite recently when i was in Eastbourne i had a three button day. my heart beat quite fast.

So imagine how i felt about seeing this little lot in my path.

there are 21 of them

I was very excited. i can't really imagine where they came from. some look new, but some look like they have some thread in them so must have come from a shirt or a dress. it's a mystery to me, but i think a very good sign of fortune. and so far the sun has shone.

I like this time of year because soon i'll be finding all the lovely big buttons that have fallen off of coats and winter cardigans. Those are the nicest ones.

Yours in good fortune.
Emsy xxxx

Last of my summer twine

I have finished! My epic knit of the summer is complete! My long and colourful cotton cardigan.
hip hip hooray, rejoice this day. (it is difficult to take photos these days because there's no more sunshine)

I closed my eyes (i closed my eyes) drew back the curtain (oohoohooh) to see for certian (oohooh) any dream will do.

Here is the pattern i wrote (i am not really sure that you would want to knit one of these, but just incase):

Long Cotton Cardigan
Materials:
Colinette Banwry (100% cotton) and 4mm needles (my tension which i have based this pattern on is = 20sts x 28 rows to 4”)


The Back
Cast on 110 sts and work in stocking stitch until work 110 rows ending on a P row.
Next row – for shaping to the back – k40, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog five times, k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k40 (to end of row) [99sts]
Continue to knit on these 99 sts for a further 90 rows (200 rows in total)


The Fronts
(Create 2 – work down)
Cast on 30 sts and working in stocking stitch, increase 1 stitch at the outer edge end of every fourth row (row 4, 8, 12, 16 etc) until you have worked 80 rows and have 50 sts.
Continue to work this way until you have 167 rows (or 32 rows from finished length)Then in the final 32 rows, decrease to form a curve, ending with 27 stitches to cast off. (this is optional, but a nice little touch)


The Sleeves
(create 2 – work down)
Cast on 65 sts and working in stocking stitch for 11 rows.
Next row k2tog to decrease one at each end of next and every twelfth row until you have worked 90 rows (51 sts) knit a further 10 rows, knit two rows, rib for 15 rows and cast off.


Sew the pieces together. I learnt a new sewing technique to sew my seams. It is a stitch called mattress stitch. It is so so simple to do and is really worth learning how because it is so neat.

seamless

Finally, finish with a border of your choice. This was the hardest part of the whole thing for me. First i crocheted - too baggy. then i knitted the border in rib stitch, but first time i cast off too tight, second attempt was a bit lop sided, third attempt... juuuuust right. The moral of this story is, if at first you don't succeed, try try again. I haven't put any buttons or fastenings on as think it will be my preference to wear it open. I am not sure on what occasion i will find to wear it. Maybe just on Sundays when we go to eat lavender cake at Treacle.

I finished just at the right time, as yesterday the wool i ordered for my October project arrived. Grand!

Yours moving on up now,

Emilia xx x x x x

Pilgrim's progress

Last night i had evening class number 4. it is beginning to get exciting as the process goes on. Last night i fitted my toile (that is the basic calico skirt) to make sure it is the right size and from that i was able to make some minor adjustments to the pattern to make my own personal skirt blocks. These are card versions of the paper pattern to use as the basic templates for creating my own designs.

Here i am with some miniature versions to show you what they are like (the real ones are life size)

We are using the little ones to practise how to manipulate the shapes to create the pattern pieces for different skirt types. It is fun and now i think i just want to make clothes for small things. I hope we get to make up our final design in miniature first. that will please me.

working in miniature makes me think of Viktor and Rolf. that would be fun to make a whole collection in small sizes.

I think i have a good idea of my own design now. Here is my first attempt at a sketch (i traced from a template to get the right shape!)

The one on the left is the best version as more of a pencil skirt, and the pleats have a good shading effect. I am not sure of the fabric yet as that will make all the difference. My idea comes from this pair of trousers i saw. I only have a small picture in my scrapbook, but will try to find a better one to show you where the inspiration was from - that might help with the visualisation. I like the position of the pleats, and would like to put in some pockets if we are allowed. They are useful for when i find a button or penny (it is important that you consider the practicalities of the design)

It is very satisfying to be doing all this designing and making. It will probably be a couple of weeks before i have much more to show and tell, but i am hoping for grand things to come.

Yours trust me i'm a designer,

Emilia. xx.x

A project for October

Today it is the start of October and my mind is thinking of the projects which will be lovely for the changing seasons. The last of my summer knitting is nearing completion now (it is in construction stage - so more on this soon) and my mind is wandering off to more woolly delights for the cold days ahead.

I really like all the cream aran cardigans i see around and think this is something i would really like to attempt. Yumi has been knitting a scarf as a present for her dad. it is called a toyboy scarf, and has some cable twists in it and it looks so lovely. i am very much inspired to make the leap and learn the techniques!

I have never done cabling before, so I am going to keep my first attempt nice and simple. I have drawn my preliminary design which is mostly stocking stitch, but has a bit of cabling at the front to get me started. Maybe twists or plaits would look nice there.

here is my vision. i enjoy the imagining stage.

 this will be similar to the effect i'd like to see - maybe less mauve lipstick

I have ordered the wool (it was payday and i couldn't hold back) - it is some aran and the colourway is called dark jacob. I hope it will be a good one for this project.

my picture has pixelated a little with enlargement, but you can see the colours

I was pleased to see some cable knits in Prada's A/W 2010 collection. And also some evidence of blended yarns. I like it when high fashion accommodates my hobbies.

i like this blue cardigan - far left

I think i could recreate the look with this wool from a new range by Colinette. Perhaps when i am more confident of cabling skills.

I wonder if Muiccia Prada likes Colinette too

yours autumnally,

Emilia. x

x Cross and Dot .

This weekend has started to feel very autumnal, with a very chilly night or two recently and so I am accepting it is time to start to fully embrace the autumn in all it's golden leafed glory.

Last night i had my second pattern cutting class, and really we really got down to business drafting our first basic skirt pattern. I am proud of my efforts, and have almost finished producing my first skirt pattern.

First we used our measurements from last week and some paper called cross and dot paper (so called because of some very helpfully placed crosses and dots) and some instructions from Julia, our teacher, and drafted the shapes which make a skirt.

my draft pattern, ready for tracing and adding the seam allowances

My homework this week is to trace off my shapes and add the seam allowances and other information to make a finished pattern ready to use to make a calico toile in next week's next class.

It was really fun to be drawing and to be able to ask if i got stuck with something and to work with other people in my class. And the most pleasing part was to start to see the shape become something like a pattern. That was really exciting for me.

My homework now is to trace off and add the seam allowances and other information to make a pattern which can be used to make my calico toile in next week's next class. I think that is going to be a nice evening.

After we have made our basic pattern and adjusted it to a perfect fit, we will learn how to incorporate more features and create something that we have designed from our own imaginations. I have therefore been letting mine run riot so i can take full advantage of that. I think i have a good idea of what i will want to do now, although do change my mind a lot. I want to do everything!

 

i am keeping a scrapbook to hold my ideas

When i did french classes it really felt like hard work, but this is learning that is fun! There is a girl in my class who wants to work in the fashion industry. i can understand that as i think to be a professional pattern cutter would really be a satisfying occupation.

yours learnedly,

Emilia. x

First Class

Last night i went to my first evening class. I have signed up for pattern cutting with City College. I was quite nervous but it was really grand once we had all said hello to each other. There is a really nice mixture of people i think, and everyone has different experiences and different ambitions so it will be really nice to be working with them to see what they do. I think their designs will be something quite different to mine so it is exciting.

Our teacher is called Julia and she is really nice and i think will be a good teacher. She showed us some sketchbooks that she did when she took courses. I would like to keep on of those. I have a scrapbook where i like to keep pictures i see, but i never do sketching. This will be a good skill to develop. I think i will study Fifi Lapin more closely for good drawing techniques. Perhaps i will ask Deb to help me with watercolours!

j'adore la lapin

Last night i learnt about some new equipment, like a tracing wheel and a pattern master. i am looking forward to getting my hands on those. Also we took some measurements in preparation.

this is a pattern master to help draw on seam allowances and draw curves

The course is for a whole academic year and the first term is devoted to skirts. i am happy about this. The first step is to learn how to use our measurements to make a basic silhouette. i think this will be our task for the next couple of weeks. Then after that we will learn to adapt the basic shape to make up our own designs. I have started some research on this but can never make up my mind. it will be fun to do proper designing instead of just freestyling!

Sorry Vogue Easy Options pattern 8363, it is time to move on

farewell my trusty friend

Yours studiously,

Emilia. xx

The Mixtape Project

Last month, after seeing this from Debbie, I joined The Mixtape Project.

Yesterday i was delighted to receive in the post, my first mixtape from a stranger. It is really a great one with lots of bands i like on it and a lot of illustrations. I managed to find the creator online and here it is.

It is lovely to have received something which has had so much effort put in. i feel quite honoured. I will be sure to write and say thank you.

I decided for my introductory mixtape, i would use the theme of birds.

The past month has been quite hectic for so i fear i have not spent as much time and effort as i would have liked to, and certainly not as much as was put into the one i was sent. But i hope that my recipient enjoys my humble offering.

I am already starting to think about next month. This is a lot of fun indeed.

Emilia. x