Tying a Bow

It was my birthday a couple of weeks ago and amongst the wonderful gifts i got this book* - Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi:

*i just want to mention to you that I have just added a link to Tomoko's book using an amazon affiliate link which means you can support me if you decided you wanted to get this book. But it has not influenced this blog post in any way and has been added long after writing. But it is a gem of a book.

It is a wonderful book to help me build on my pattern cutting skills. As you can see from the cover picture, it has some really amazing designs and shows how to draw the patterns to make your own.

One of my aims for my holiday was to have a go at one of the patterns myself while i have lots of time to spend on it and yesterday proved to be the perfect day for it.

The first task was to draw a japanese style Bunka block (she calls the block a sloper, as i think these are made up in paper in 3D, but i kept to flat pattern drawing as you will see).

This actually ended up not dissimilar to my english style block which I am used to working with, but the the drawing experience was quite different, following a diagram rather than a full step by step that Winifred gives. It looked quite daunting to begin with but in the end i really preferred this method. Another difference was that with Winifred there are a great number of measurements to work with, where for the bunka style the whole block is based on the bust, waist and body length measurements only. Tomoko also gives a chart with every calculation worked out for each section of the block which really saved me trouble doing the arithmatic myself. it was all very clever and very pleasing.

And here is my finished bunka style block:

(compared to my english close fitting block incase you wonder how they differ):

The design i wanted to have a go at is called tying a bow. There are a few variations but the one i wanted to do looks like this:

a pretty and vintage style.

I followed the instructions for block adaptation which again take the form of a diagram. This is what i was aiming for (eek!):

and here are my finished pattern pieces:

and so the moment of truth came with the toile. and i'm pleased to say it all came together wonderfully:

 here is the untied front as in the book:

and my untied toile as modelled by Harriet:

and the moment of truth:

I fear i have not tied my bow as neatly as the book, but nonetheless I am so so pleased!  The photo doesn't really do this achievement justice at all and the reality is very lovely. And I have tried it on and it fits so wonderfully which is a real triumph. 

My next step will be to make a dress i think, using this pattern i've made as the basis so I will be back with news of this. I have a rather good stash of fabric for just such a project.

Yours bow tied,

Emilia. xx

a new year new knit

For christmas, my friend Hayley gave to me this wonderful book:

It is such a gem - full of vintage knitting patterns right through from the 1920s to the 1980s. It's got a lovely introduction to each chapter about knitwear at each decade and loads of lovely projects.

I have picked this little gem for my next project - a 1950s, lacy yoked and oh so soft cardy

soft

I found it really nice that these are all patterns which have been adapted from vintage patterns for a modern knitter. That means the wool recommended is still available! This one recommends Orkney Angora yarn - one called Magnus DK. It's 50% angora and 50% lambswool and such a beautiful soft yarn. What a luxury!

Unfortunately I didn't make a tension square before starting and got quite a long way before i had a chance to check my sizing. It was only then i realised that i was quite a long way out. So then I did a small tension square but a bit lazily really, and only to check the number of stitches. I just assumed the number of rows would fall into place. But unfortunately my laziness (as it always does) came back with vengence and they didn't. Normally it might not matter because i would just knit a few more rows but because of the yoke design of this pattern, I didn't want to risk it all coming out too squashed. So I have now started again with a happy medium needle size. third time lucky...

too small and too big. too many sleeves.

It's quite a satisfying one as all knitting on circular and double pointed needles meaning it will be totally seamless (except for sewing on the button bands). And also very pleasing because of how lovely the wool feels. And also because it's a new project, i have my knitting motivation back.

Yours softly softly,
Emilia. xx

success with skirts

It was a long time ago when i was thinking about skirt projects for my autumn term of dressmaking classes. I finished the term at the start of december and was very pleased to have completed my classroom project, my Chanel Keira inspired design.

Here is headless harriet modelling (a little crooked photography)

It was really nice to take ten weeks over this and to take time to complete each small step. It really paid off and I am so pleased with the outcome.

You probably won't really remember now, but I had bought some black wool crepe at the same time and planned to make another skirt step by step alongside this one. However, although it seemed really a reasonable task, it really just didn't happen... but inspiration did hit last weekend (or maybe it was the once before?) and i hunkered down for a good sewing session.

I completely changed my mind over what I was going to do after seeing this picture in one of my picture books:

I decided i really wanted a wrap around skirt. I have a kilt, but that's not really the same and so this was definitely a grand addition to my wardrobe.

Unfortunately as the fabric is black, you can not really tell, but maybe can get sort of an idea:

You can also see in this picture a little bit of the jacket i made but i will save this for another time to really tell you about. 

I fear there are still a couple of lumps and bumps but i would rather these sort themselves out with wear than murder the wool with a hot iron - It is such a dream to wear though. As i cut the pattern myself it is a perfect fit, and was even comfortable after my christmas dinner! This was the ultimate test also because I was worried about fastenings. There is no waistband, only a facing at the top, so i really needed the fastenings to be discrete, but as well very sturdy. I think it would be quite easy to completely lose a wrap around skirt if the fastenings failed. I've got some good plastic poppers though which are really flat, but very secure, plus a little hook for extra security measures, but christmas day was a good test and i am pleased to report there were no incidents at all.

I have been reading and very much enjoying my couture sewing techniques book from last christmas. It's really inspiring to see what amazing things can be achieved with real care. I made a real hash of a dress a few weeks ago, and only because I rushed so much (and the fabric wasn't very good). I surely must have learnt by now though. I think it's one of my traits but I am working on it... a good lesson for the new year!

And another achievement from my list! nearly there!

Yours truly,

Emilia. xxxx

Lovely Gloves

In the summer I went to stay with my nanny and granddad in yorkshire. It was so lovely to spend time with them. I have a lot on common with my nanny as she also loves to make things. 

As a present, she said i could take some of her old knitting needles (i love the old coloured and plastic ones the best!) and also this book, Knitting for all (illustrated!)

 it's a little bit grubby on the cover - but it think it's in good condition for 66 years old

Inside is such a delight - so many vintage gems and so many great pictures  - the captions are amazing!

My first project from the book is a pair of gloves. I liked this pattern a lot because they were knitted on just two needles, and had a lovely pattern on them. I've never knitted gloves before so a good one to try.

I also chose these because they are made in a 4ply and I really love Rowan pure wool 4ply at the moment. I used it for my christmas moss detail jumper and also my raspberry cardigan and also the socks i made for mum. This time i used the same blue as the jumper again as it's such a lovely vintage shade.

And the result is most pleasant i would say. I have decided to put these ones for sale in my new shop (a new project for me!) but definitely want a pair of these for myself now so has gone on my list of projects. I am still working on my little shortie for myself at the moment. I have noticed that the season now is changing a little so i think the knitting pace will be picking up momentum very soon.

Yours cable hands,

Emilia. xxxxx

Jazzing it up

I have really been quiet on the making front this month. I think i have been reading more - at the moment I am reading Never let me go by Kazuo Ishiguro. I am really enjoying it and sometimes feel like I want to pick it up more than my knitting if you can believe it!

I think also a reason I have not been so busy is because I am not sure where I stand with the seasons at the moment. This time of year is normally busy with summer dresses, but it's not quite been the weather to inspire me.

However, today I went for a little hunt for pillowcases and flowerpots in the charity shops, and also happened  upon this jazzy little bit of fabric:

It was just £1 but quite small. I was confident of getting a dress out of it after managing to make a dress from a scarf (briefly mentioned here) last year which I wear quite a lot. I used headless harriet and really just draped and pinned the fabric onto her until it looked like a dress and sewed it all up. I wonder if this is how the draping method of pattern cutting really works? I'm not sure. 

I was quite slapdash with my sewing this afternoon as am being a bit lazy today. But I am pleased with my finished result:

And there you can also see my new flowerpot too (trying to detract from the ill appearance of the plant!)

I think this will be a good addition to my summer wardrobe. I hear there is some summer weather approaching so perhaps this will be just in time! Let us have hope.

Lovely afternoon's work.

Yours jazzily,
Emilia. x. xxx

Tea and cosy

At the moment i am thinking a lot about things i can make for the home. that is mostly because i am moving to a new flat next week and am thinking about how lovely it will be. we have been having quite a lot of fun making some grand purchases of the essentials (bed, sofa, retro coffee table, expensive tea towels) but i always find a lot of joy in making and very much joy is being thrifty. Kirstie would be proud (i have been watching an unhealthy amount of this recently)

Here is a bright red tea cosy i made with the left overs from a jumper i knitted a boy for the Lewes bonfire procession a couple of years ago (he is in Southover society - red and black)

tea-berry

I am so pleased with it! i have started knitting tea cosies before but never finished one so it is a personal triumph as well.

For tea cosying purposes, I decided to use a blanket rib stitch which is so fat and warm - i think it will be good insulation. I found out how to do it in this GREAT book that i got for christmas:

over 900 great stitches

a peek inside

There are so many stitches all arranged in categories with good pictures and instructions and a guide for how difficult they are. (Daisy stitch is for the experienced knitter apparently - it doesn't mention how much patience is needed though)

I made up my tea-cosy pattern as i went along, but it worked out okay. Here are my steps retraced for future reference! i could probably have got away with fewer stitches as mine came out quite wide. maybe about 32, but I think a little room won't hurt.

Using chunky red wool and 5.5mm needles, Cast on 36 stitches.

row 1: kfb every stitch across the row

row 2 k2tog, p2tog, k2tog, p2tog all the way across the row.

Complete these 2 rows until 36 rows have been worked (or to desired length)

row 37: knit

row 38: knit 1, knit 2 and pass the first over to cast it off. knit another two and again pass the first over the second to cast off. Cast off every other stitch in this way until the last stitch which you just knit.

row 39: knit

row 40: pfb of every stitch 

row 41 as row 2

repeat rows 40 and 41 twice or three times more (this makes a little ruffle on the top, so it is up to you how much ruffle you think is right) and then cast off.

Repeat to create the second piece and sew the two sides together at the top and bottom, leaving gaps in the side for you handle and spout.


For the finishing touch thread a ribbon through the gaps left by casting off every other stitch and gather up.

And voila! it is a joy.

Yours, no more tepid seconds,

Emilia. xxx

Saplings of new year stitchings

Now it is the new year, and my mind is on resolutions. I was inspired to read Debbie's resolutions as they are like challenges for the year ahead. I especially can relate to her resolution to knit a little less and read a little more. That is definitely one i am trying to do too.

One distration from my needles and wool is a cross stitch sampler kit that i got for christmas. I know that cross stitch is not all that hip (unlike knitting) but this one doesn't have a single forever friend in sight, and when it is complete, i think will be quite wonderful.

NOT LIKE THIS

I read in the book Mad Bad and Sad, that embroidery used to be bad news in days of old because it made women detached from their family and from society at large. There was one woman who was murdered by her daughter and they blamed it on the needle work. I only hope i can keep a handle on it. The little bit i have done i found very pleasing, but I am not sure it is quite as addictive as crochet (i have gone cold turkey on the crochet since the last time) and does take more concentration than knitting.

I won't ruin the surprise, but will update my progress to see how it grows. It will be a long term project, but my resolution is to finish within the year. it will be quite a triumph!

saplings of a mighty oak

 

Wishing you a happy new year,

Emilia. xxx

Back to school

Tomorrow begins a new school term, but i realise i have not yet shown and told about last term's triumph. I finished my evening class project numero uno before christmas. my trouser inspired pleated skirt.

(i have just noticed the terrible shadows and creases! sorry for this!)

The process was a really intereting one and i learnt a lot of good skills along the way.

I started with a version in miniture. this was a really useful exercise as i drew a pattern in quarter size which meant going through the process again to refresh my mind. it was easier the second time (and in small) and it gave me an opportunity to see how my initial idea and pattern adaptation would really work in fabric.

first step - creating the mini toile to see how my idea would work in practice

Once i was happy, i used my block which i had created in the first couple of classes and applied the same manipulation techniques i had tested in miniature to create my real life pattern!

Here is a picture of my pattern pieces. i am quite proud of these. i definitely have plans to use them again, perhaps with some minor adjustments. I had to alter my toile as it was far too big, but didn't do another mock up before making the final piece which meant that my final version ended up still slightly big (it is hard to now how tight would be practical!) i got around this with belt loops so i can wear my skirt on the waist as i intended. I can update my pattern again for next time, although might also try another in a heavier fabric as i know that can sometimes make quite a difference to fit.

I put in-seam pockets in, as i enjoy putting my hands in my pockets, and also they are useful when you find something. I used mint green lining for mine and was really pleased with the effect! We also covered some construction techniques in classes which I found really useful. Although i thought i knew how to do things like seams ad zips, there are all sorts of techniques to achieve different effects. I didn't try any of the decorative seams in my skirt, but did put into practice what i learnt about concealed zips and slip stitch hems...

 a concealed zip which means no stitching on the right side of the fabric - definitely a pleasing result for a first attempt.

We learnt how to sew our hems with no visible stitching on either side - it was quite obvious once we were shown, but i had never known it before

Next term is blouses and bodices. this will be much more of challenge i think. but i am really looking forward to getting my teeth into all the new things I will learn during that process. For christmas i got this great book which has a lot of techniques to apply to my own dressmaking and looks like it will be a very good companion to my classes as has sections on garment types as well as specific finishing techniques.

time to up my game

And also i got a Pattern Master!! 

for all my pattern drafting needs!

New term, I am ready,

Yours fastened up and finished off,

Emilia. xxxx

Stir Up Sunday

Today it is stir up sunday. That is the last sunday before advent which is traditionally the day for stirring up all the christmas pudding mix.

And this year i am getting in on the act, with the help of Nigella. My mum always uses Delia's recipe, so this is a bit of an adventure, but i have a lot of trust in Nigella, after the Marmite Spaghetti success (you must try it - it's not what you think it will be like. ie. it is really really delicious!)

this is a good book full of grant festive treats. here is nigella with biscuits

It seems that recipes for christmas puddings can vary quite a lot. Mum says Delia's has beer in, and maybe some nuts but Nigella doesn't use those things. I can't find her recipe online, but the one I am using is a traditional one from her Christmas book (it seems she has perfected many type of pudding of the christmas variety)

The ingredients for the pudding are:
150g each of currants, chopped prunes and sultanas; 175ml Sherry (a sweet one in my opinion); 100g Plain Flour; 125g White Breadcrumbs; 150g Suet (vegetable in my opinion); 150g Dark Muscavado Sugar; 1 tsp Ground Cinnamon; 1/4 tsp of Ground Cloves; Grated Zest of 1 Lemon; 3 Eggs; 1 Medium Cooking Apple; 30ml (2 tbsps) of Honey (runny in my opinion)

These are the amounts Nigella gives, and this will make a 3 pint pud. For mine i have scaled it down by a third to make a 2 pinter, as fear the feast will be overwhelming.

I have had a very busy weekend so I am lucky that the process is in two parts, and today's part was very quick in that I had to measure out the dried fruit and put it in a bowl with the sherry and cover it with clingfilm to steep until tuesday when i will have the time for the rest of the activity (this is perfect as Nigella recommends the fruit is steeped at least over night or up to a week)

steeping fruits - sweet and gungey 

Tuesday I will have to get mixing as soon as i get home as there is 5 hours steaming to do before bedtime! I am really pleased that I am making my own pudding though. it is a first for me but a very very good life skill.

Yours festively,
Pudding Bowl. xxxx

Work in Progress - a BIG bit of knitting

When i was in Topshop recently i tried on this cardigan:

I know that it doesn't really look much, but it is navy cotton and has drop sleeves and the way it hangs is just lovely. I was not so impressed by the pockets and the sleeves though so deciphered the pattern and decided i can make one like this, with all the elements i was inspired by but without the ugly parts.

The shapes are all just big oblongs, and i consulted my book - Design your own Knits by Debbie Abrahams and published by Hamlyn - and the guidelines for drop shoulders there told me that there was very minimal shaping, and oversized but not too bulky is best.

here is the cover of the book in case you like the sound of it and what to find it. it is useful i would say and has a nice lot of proportional graph paper - good for accurate shaping.

I couldn't find any cotton in a colour i really liked in the shops as a lot was for baby knitting so only in pastels, and some of the other blues were just too blue and not dark enough. Rowan had a good one though, but i was perhaps trying to convince myself that Colinette was the place to go (it is my fetish i fear)

So i indulged (again) in a large quantity of a yarn they sell called Banyan which i think is 100% cotton, although the website contradicts itself. Whatever it is, it is just what i was looking for. I went for the colour Bright Charcoal:

Colinette Banwry in Bright Charcoal

So far i have completed the back which is possibly the largest single piece of knitting i've ever seen! Knitting in stocking stitch is so fast and satisfying though - i am experiencing similar addiction symptoms as with the crochet.

I have had a couple of dilemmas along the way though - firstly about the width of it (knitting on circular needles allowed it to spread out and it just looked so enormous) and then about how plain and flat it looked without any lace or stitch detail. but i persevered on the back and persuaded myself that it will be better to be true to that one that inspired me and that sometimes less is more (especially when using quite a colourful yarn) and as it grew so did my belief in it. I did take one small action though and created a small ruche in the middle of the back. This has broken up the vastness with a little bit of shaping and also reduced the width so the measurement at the shoulders is closer to my original calculations, but it hasn't really interfered with the simplicity i was aiming for. All in all i am very happy with progress. The cotton has such a lovely weight to it. i just love to squeeze it.

It will be better to show what i mean with some pictures (the sun came out today so hopefully favourable conditions for photos soon)

Now i have started the front panel and it's growing fast! I am worried about how much knitting i am doing at the moment though, and might try to cut back this week and try to do a bit more reading. All this quick stocking stitch makes me realise that it would be quite easy to make a couple of basic cardigans for the winter, and much nicer and warmer ones than from the shops. But less about that for now - we still have 22 days of summer to go...

Yours ambitiously,
Emilia. xxxx

Floral Frock

For my birthday i got this wonderful book - Floral Frocks by Rosemary Harden and Jo Turney. What a gem!

 

The book is a critique of the Floral dress - an item which has been in style and worn by women in every decade for a century (i learnt). It is really interesting to read the history of the fabrics and fashions and the differing styles and social significance of the dresses. And very lovely to see all the pictures of women in their frocks! It has definitely brought to my consciousness what a lovely thing a flowery dress is, and how nice it is to wear one.

Whilst flicking through the book I found this beauty. I love everything about it.

Bella!

So i tried for myself...

I used my tent dress pattern, this time using the round neck and long sleeve options. An added bonus is that C&H Fabrics are stocking some reproduction vintage floral print fabrics at the moment. They don't have one with the flowers in stripes like that, but i found an alternative with a big print which i really liked. A bold departure from the ditsy (literally).

Here is the result!

I like to wear the matching headscarf - but I do feel like i am in sixties fancy dress so probably just keep that for special occassions. My sister said i looked Russian - i think she meant peasant girl rather than Bond girl though. i didn't quite manage to get the sleeves - but maybe next time. 

here is what the dress looks like on a normal day, sans headscarf it is still a standalone gem!

I am pleased with the result, even though it is not quite what i had in mind when i started. This is to be my last summer dress of the year. But not the end of florals - Erdem is showing me the way forward! (there is even a patchwork skirt in there)

Yours Florally Frocked,

Emilia. xx x x x x x x x x

ps. while i am at it i will show you this little flowered one i made a couple of weeks ago. it is a simple tube shape with some chord for straps and a bit of elastic to help it fit. i made it from a curtain remnant - just like those coupon savvy forties girls. x

Flora

July has been the most fun of times. there were birthdays and a festival and a holiday for me. This means not so much time for making things, but there was one small triumph in this grand month.... i learned to crochet flowers and made this delightful garland for Latitude Festival...

All of the patterns came from the book i bought a while ago called 100 Flowers to Knit and Crochet, by Lesley Stanfield. It is a really great book and has so many flowers as well as a few fruits and vegetables. 

I have not done much crochet before and the small bits i have done have never had me hooked (haha) However, the flowers were more successful than the knitted ones and although knitting is the one and only when it comes to cardigans, i have recognised a place for crochet in the small projects. It is very satisfying, and great to pass the time while the football was on.

Here is the final line up...

clockwise from the green ends the flowers are Helenium, Hellebore, Peony, Auricula, Field Poppy, Mecanopsis, four Borages, Apple Blossom, Buttercup, Daisy and Forget-me-not.

This has also improved my awareness of flower names. they are a nice thing to learn. Yumi as well has been making some beauties and sported a garland of Hellebores at my birthday picnic.

Here i am at Latitude in the woods. Viva la garland!

Yours florally,

Botany. xxx

ps. here are some pictures from the Krakow Botanical Gardens which we visited on our holiday. That was a lovely place for a sunny day. i enjoyed taking pictures of the flowers. especially roses.